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Known as the ‘Winterless North’, the traditionally milder weather of this area is one of many good reasons to venture north on a road trip.
The Bay of Islands combines Russell’s heritage charm with boat cruises and marine adventures leaving from busy Paihia, and further north the attractions become even more remote and spectacular, leading all the way to the very top of the North Island at Cape Reinga.
Here are 10 destinations worth heading to this summer – or any time of year:
MANGAWHAI HEADS
Mangawhai village lies on a horseshoe-shaped harbour, but it’s Mangawhai Heads, 5 kilometres further on, that’s really special. A narrow sandspit stretches for kilometres to form the harbour’s south head, sheltering a seabird sanctuary. There’s an excellent surf beach, best viewed while traversing the Mangawhai Cliff Top Walkway. Starting at Mangawhai Heads, this walking track (around two to three hours) offers extensive views of the ocean and the coast. Make sure you time it right to return down the beach at low tide.
WAIPU
Waipu Cove is excellent for swimming and there are shaded spots for a picnic. Waipu is a sleepy village with excellent cafes that comes to life on summer weekends. The area was originally colonised by Scottish settlers who arrived between 1853 and 1860. The Waipu Museum (waipumuseum.co.nz) tells their story, and on January 1, Waipu’s annual Highland Games (waipugames.co.nz) celebrate heather-infused events including caber tossing and Scottish dancing.
TUTUKAKA
Bursting with yachts, dive crews and game-fishing charter boats, the marina at Tutukaka presents opportunities to explore the stunning above- and below-water scenery in the surrounding area. Many travellers are here to go diving at the Poor Knights Islands, but the underwater thrills are also accessible for snorkelling fans. Surfing lessons are available from O’Neill Surf Academy (oneillsurfacademy.co.nz), and one of the best local walks is a blissful 20-minute coastal stroll from Matapouri to the compact cove at nearby Whale Bay.
RUSSELL & PAIHIA
Russell was originally Kororareka, a fortified Ngapuhi village. In the early 19th century the local Maori tribe permitted it to become NZ’s first European settlement. After the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840, nearby Okiato was the country’s temporary capital before the capital was moved to Auckland in 1841. Okiato, then known as Russell, was abandoned, and the name Russell eventually replaced Kororareka. Historical highlights now include Pompallier Mission, an 1842 Catholic mission house, and Christ Church (1836), New Zealand’s oldest church.
Connected to Russell by passenger ferries across a narrow harbour, Paihia is more energetic than its sleepier sibling. Paihia’s waterfront hosts maritime excursions including island sightseeing, dolphin-watching and sailing. A coastal road meanders 3km to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Occupying a headland draped in lawns and forest, this is NZ’s most important historic site. On February 6 1840, the first 43 of more than 500 Maori chiefs signed the Treaty of Waitangi with the British Crown.
KERIKERI
Famous for its oranges, Kerikeri also produces kiwifruit, vegetables and wine. It’s also increasingly popular with retirees and hosts some of the Northland’s best restaurants. A snapshot of early Maori and Pakeha interaction is offered by a cluster of historic sites centred on Kerikeri’s picturesque river basin. Dating from 1836, the Stone Store (historic.org.nz) is NZ’s oldest stone building, and tours depart from here for the nearby Mission House (historic.org.nz), the country’s oldest surviving building, dating from 1822.
CAPE REINGA
The water off Cape Reinga Lighthouse (a 1km walk from the car park) is where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet. Maori consider Cape Reinga (Te Rerenga-Wairua) the jumping-off point for souls as they depart on the journey to their spiritual homeland. Out of respect to the most sacred site of Maori people, refrain from eating or drinking anywhere in the area. Around 16km south of Cape Reinga on SH1, a road leads west for 4km to the Te Paki Recreation Reserve.
AHIPARA
Ninety Mile Beach ends at this relaxed Far North beach town. A few holiday mansions have snuck in, but mostly it’s just the locals keeping it real with visiting surfers. The area is known for its huge sand dunes and massive gum field where 2000 people once worked. Adventure activities are popular on the dunes above Ahipara and further around the Tauroa Peninsula.
OPONONI & OMAPERE
The twin settlements of Opononi and Omapere lie on the south head of Hokianga Harbour. Views are dominated by mountainous sand dunes across the water at North Head. During summer, the Hokianga Express departs from Opononi Jetty, and travellers can sandboard down a 30m slope. Starting at the car park at the end of Signal Station Rd, the Arai te Uru Heritage Walk (30 minutes return) follows the cliffs and passes through manuka scrub before continuing to the Hokianga’s southern headland.
WAIPOUA FOREST
This superb forest sanctuary is the largest remnant of the once-extensive kauri forests of northern New Zealand. Near the northern end of the park stands mighty Tane Mahuta, named for the Maori forest god. At 51.5m high with a 13.8m girth, this is the largest kauri alive, and has been growing for between 1200 and 2000 years. Stop at the Waipoua Forest Visitor Centre (teroroa.iwi.nz/visit-waipoua) for an exhibition on the forests, guided tours, flax-weaving lessons and a cafe.
MATAKOHE
Apart from its rural charms, the key reason for visiting Matakohe is the superb Kauri Museum (kaurimuseum.com). The giant cross-sections of trees are astounding, but the entire timber industry is brought to life through video kiosks, artefacts, fabulous furniture and marquetry, and reproductions of a pioneer sawmill, boarding house, gumdigger’s hut and Victorian home. The Gum Room holds a weird and wonderful collection of kauri gum, the amber substance that can be carved, sculpted and polished to a jewel-like quality.
Sоurсе: stuff.co.nz
