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Four-wheel driving across Australia has taken us from sandy cliffs to mountain peaks. We’ve set up camp in the most spectacular locations. But Day 116 brings us to our most anticipated location yet, in the northwest corner of the Northern Territory.
Combining my two greatest passions, reading and travel, and a little detective work, I book our journey-weary band of four into Bullo River Station, made famous by the writings of the late Sara Henderson. Our stay holds the promise of beds, solid walls and bathrooms with running water, which is enough to have us all excited.
Arriving in a cloud of bulldust (real stuff, not just slang) we are treated to the finest authentic Australian hospitality, welcomed by everyone like long-lost friends. Within minutes we are enjoying refreshments and earnestly discussing what to do next.
We follow a large Esky into a six-seater buggy. In this all-terrain vehicle, we cross the Bullo River at low tide, spotting more than 30 species of birds, as well as a family of wild pigs, water buffalo and a small fraction of the station’s 7000 cattle. Then we traverse a bumpy track to the top of a ridge and a picnic of delicious homemade food.
Back in the yards to work, our nine-year-old son is on the buffalo fly spray, his 10-year-old brother is reloading the tagging gun, I am assisting with immunisation and my husband is helping with the gates. As the shadows lengthen it is time to spy more wildlife — birds, shy rock wallabies and perhaps the 4m crocodile living only 5km from the homestead. Time then for showers (hot water, no queues) before pre-dinner drinks on the veranda, watching the sun set and reliving our adventures with our hosts. The day ends perfectly with fresh barramundi salad under the stars.
On day two, we continue where we left off. We catch our own barramundi, visit ancient rock art, go horse riding, feed orphaned calves, swim in the waterhole, take driving lessons in the buggy and spot more wildlife, followed by another sunset and delicious dinner shared with the staff, who provide side-splitting entertainment, mostly suitable for the whole family.
Morning brings tearful hugs and goodbyes, feeling closer to understanding the hardships faced by Sara Henderson. Now back on that dusty road.
Sоurсе: theaustralian.com.au
